Written by Ray Yuen - April 2009
The local restaurant is often the culmination of a dream whereby someone with a genuine talent for creating great food has a burning desire for the world to taste it. The chef lovingly prepares each dish, hoping desperately that the diner gourmet melts in his/her art. The chef (or designate) is always on site to ensure that each meal reflects the passion attached with the evolution of the recipe. Every inspiration comes from the heart, and every artful creation is painstakingly constructed. Quality control is rarely an issue as the owner’s paramount concern focuses on customer happiness.
Now, let’s look at the typical chain restaurant. Headquartered in Orlando Florida, 3200 kilometres from Winnipeg, the Olive Garden brass issues every directive, pumping out menus across the world. The factories create sauces by the pool-full and ship the frozen goo out through convoys of semis. Quality control rests in the factory, ensuring that every gallon of spaghetti sauce comes out the same. The plate of spaghetti you eat in Tampa tastes identical to the plate of spaghetti you eat at Polo Park. After the vats of sauce complete their long treks to your local feeding hole, all the “cook” has to do is thaw it out and pour it on the pasta. Voila, another dish is ready for mass consumption.
If I want pre-prepared sauce poured over pasta, why don’t I just buy a bottle of Paul Newman and pour it myself at home? Seriously!
Some people have the misconception that chains have better prices. Marketing philosophy says that transnational corporations are efficient. They buy in bulk at lower prices and pass the savings onto consumers. The little mom-and-pop shops don’t have the buying power to compete. What did our comparisons tell us? The transnational Olive Garden gets its raw materials at lower prices and yet, they sell to you at the same price! Bottom line: the MBAs found another way to put more money into the shareholders’ pockets.
During our trip to Mexico, Meghan and I commented on this exact topic as we tried the different restaurants that people had recommended. There was such a clear difference eating at Gus Gus, a popular spot with a live band every night, and Chayito’s, a family restaurant slightly off the beaten path. Chayito’s food was spectacular - fresh, filling, and delicious.
This issue, local vs. chain, is an issue that is dear to my own heart, coming from a family of restauranteurs, and it has always bothered me when people undervalue local restaurants with honest-to-goodness chefs and cooks and overvalue chain restaurants that pretend to be full-service. That consistency you like so much? That’s pre-made food right there. That speed and efficiency? The same.
I have definitely been known to frequent the Moxie’s and Joeys of our world (in fact, I’m going to Joeys on May 27 for appetizers and cocktails pre- Sex and the City II) and to enjoy my food to boot! However, I now do so with the awareness that much of the food is pre-made, processed far away, and controlled by corporate, not imagined by a chef.
As for Yuen’s commentary about how local restaurants are likely to adopt the chain restaurant model as they expand (case in point: Moxie’s), here’s some food for thought: Why Grow?
For the record: Tomato Pie Company? My favourite Italian restaurant in the city!
Downtown Winnipeg’s getting buried in piles of negative criticism this past week, after the owner of Kraut King gave one parting shot as he exited stage right. I unfortunately never made it down to Kraut King for lunch (though I wanted to). I heard the food was good, like the above tumblr suggests, so I’m going to assume the food wasn’t the issue. I’d also like to suggest, however, that the so-called “bums” weren’t the issue, either.
Frankly, downtown Winnipeg (and the surrounding areas of the West End, Osborne, River Heights, etc.) are full of excellent places to nosh. A combination of factors need to come together for a business to succeed, and it’s irresponsible to pin blame on people for just existing. As a business person, I believe you need to make choices that support and encourage growth of the community you’ve chosen to be part of.
Kelly Hughes, owner of Aqua Books and Eat!Bistro right across the street, puts it best, so I’ll let his words do my talking: